Hot take: everyone is using the wrong seam allowance for stretch knits

I keep seeing people use a standard 5/8 inch seam on jersey and other stretch fabrics, and it always looks stiff and pulls. After three failed projects last month, I switched to a 1/4 inch allowance with a narrow zigzag stitch. The difference is huge, the seams actually stretch with the fabric now. My go-to black jersey dress from this test drapes perfectly. Has anyone else found a better stitch type for super stretchy stuff like rib knit?

2 comments

2 Comments

diana205d ago

Used to swear by the 5/8 inch seam for everything. Made a few twisted messes that convinced me otherwise. The 1/4 inch with a narrow zigzag is a total game changer for drape. Also started using a walking foot on my machine, which helps a ton with feeding those slinky fabrics evenly. For rib knit, a three-step zigzag stitch has been my best find, it's nearly impossible to pop. Your dress success makes me want to try a jersey project again.

jamie_white5d ago

My old machine ate a jersey dress once, it was a total horror show.