22
Appreciation post: I picked a curved seam over a dart for a jacket shoulder and it worked way better
I was drafting a wool blazer pattern and got stuck on the shoulder shaping, so I had to choose between a traditional dart or trying a curved seam line. I went with the curved seam after seeing it in a 1980s Issey Miyake book, and the fit is so much cleaner without adding bulk. Has anyone else used this technique on a structured piece?
3 comments
Log in to join the discussion
Log In3 Comments
king.wyatt19d ago
Good call. Curved seams are a game changer for heavy fabrics. They spread the shaping out instead of concentrating it in one spot. Less chance of weird puckering with wool. I use a similar trick on leather jackets sometimes. Lets the material move better across the shoulders. Cleaner look for sure.
9
sarahbailey19d ago
Yeah it's funny you mention leather... I tried to make a simple tote bag out of some thick suede once and completely forgot about seam allowance. The thing turned out so stiff it could stand up on its own... like a weird boxy sculpture. Learned my lesson the hard way about planning for how the material actually bends.
9
grace5086d ago
Forgot seam allowance on a leather wallet once and it wouldn't close right. The thickness really changes how much room you need to leave. It's a different kind of math than with regular fabric.
5